Comparisons to Other Methods.
The Silent Paint Remover Method. Removing multiple layers
of paint from an entire house creates a prepared surface for paint
and varnish to adhere to for a very long time and can not be achieved
with any other method. I want to emphasize that anyone with the
notion that other methods may be faster, better or easier, needs
to do more research on all aspects of a paint job. This method is
about removing paint and varnish without any sanding, chemical neutralizing
or creating any dangerous waste products. Dry lead paint - in relatively
large flakes - is the least dangerous aspect to lead paint removing
that can only be achieved with The Silent Paint Remover. This method
generates significantly less fine airborne dust.
Chemicals: There are many very negative aspects to chemical
paint remover. First, chemicals do end up in landfills and ultimately
spread into our environment increasing the exposure to toxic material.
If you have been subject to the promotion of “natural paint remover”.
It is important to understand that removing paint in a liquid method
can not possibly be safe to the person working with it or to the
environment. You expose yourself to this substance at the same time
it is saturating the wood surface and penetrating deep into the
wood. "Natural" paint remover (Soya based as an example)
is claimed to be neutralized with water. This is an insane claim.
Lead paint in the liquid paint stripper is then flushed into your
garden at the same time you are soaking the wood you intend to paint
on. Depending on where you live and the humidity, wood may take
an entire summer to dry after it has been power washed with water.
Most likely, you will be painting on a liquid saturated surface.
Paint will not last very long on this surface. Citrus based chemical
paint stripers have been found to cause unusual allergies. Citric
acid in concentrated form is deadly. Paint lasts the best on a surface
that has not been exposed to any liquid substance at all. The absolute
best surface to paint on should be dry and have an open wood-grain
only achieved with infrared heat. Infrared heat will heat the substrate
from the inside, pushing the moisture and oils in the wood out.
Heating the surface to approximately 300 degrees Fahrenheit will
break the bond between the first layer of the paint/varnish and
the wood surface. Multiple layers are more sensitive to heat and
infrared heat will be even more effective on very thick old paint.
Sanders. Many counties/cities have now banned open air
sanding all together in accordance with EPA regulations. In the
past, very few painters have collected any paint waist. The sander
will break the paint into very fine dust that will be spread into
the neighborhood and into residential homes. This is how people
get lead poisoning. Some areas allow sanders with vacuum attachments
collecting at best 50% of the dust. There again, the environment
and the neighborhood will still receive lots of paint dust. We also
believe that any paint is unhealthy, not only lead paint. Acrylic
paint contains some 45 chemical ingredients and should not be inhaled
by anyone. A sander will not only gouge the wood, it will also close
the grain preventing the paint from getting a good tooth.
Shavers. This type of paint remover may appear to be fast
but creates a lot of work afterward. The biggest problem with shavers
is that you damage wood and create a very uneven surface that has
to be sanded afterward... simply not a good idea.
Heat-Guns/Hot plates. A Heat-Gun or a Hotplate (Coils) operated
at approximately 1100 degrees Fahrenheit. Lead paint will be released
into the air at approximately 700 degrees Fahrenheit. Wood burns
at approximately 750 degrees Fahrenheit. Heat-guns and hotplates
contribute to more than 3000 fires in the United States every year
according to many sources. Lead is very likely being released into
the air using a Heat-Gun or a Hot-Plate. You will also burn the
wood and unless this is scraped off the paint will not stick to
this charred surface.
The Power Washers. This method is often perceived as easy
and effective, however, it is very damaging to wood. The main problem
with high power water sprayer is that it will soak the wood behind
the siding. This moisture will remain for quite sometime and will
not evaporate within a few weeks like some painter claims. A moisture
meter will tell what the moisture reading is in the clapboard but
will most likely not give you an accurate reading in the wood behind
the clapboard. The moisture moves out during seasonal changes and
if the ventilation is not adequate you will end up with a variety
of paint failure issues, therefore choose a dry method.
Blasting wood. Blasting away old paint or thick layers (with
sand, baking soda, or water) cannot be done without causing substantial
damage to the wood. The reason is that old oil-based paint is harder
than the wood and thick layers of acrylic paint are more tenacious
than wood. Therefore, it requires more force than can be tolerated
by the underlying material, resulting in the softer parts of the
wood being pulled away with the paint, leaving a surface reminiscent
of an alpine landscape. Paint applied to such a surface is liable
to crack within a short space of time. The underlying wooden surface
has a greater propensity to absorb moisture causing the paint to
Steam Paint Remover. Removing paint with steam has been
tried in Europe during the 1970's but was abandoned early because
steam raises the grain of the wood and requires sanding. Sanding
old paint that most likely will contain lead is very dangerous.
It is the small particles from the lead that has made so many individuals
very ill. When small children are exposed to lead dust it causes
serious brain damage. The best way to bind the lead dust is to apply
a coat of the organic raw linseed oil on the surface and then heat
and scrape with the Silent Paint Remover. The Silent Paint
Remover and the organic raw linseed oil method will reduce
the lead exposure to the lowest level possible. Steam boxes have
also been used to remove paint from window sashes. This presents
another problem; heating an entire sash and only being able to scrape
part of the sash before the paint cools off require that you have
to reheat many times. This can cause warping of the wood and may
not be noticed until much later when you can not open the window.
Not a good idea.
Never choose a paint removing method that can not be reversed:
What does this mean?
- If a shaving tool damages wood (and possibly removes some nails
holding your siding)... this can not be reversed.
- If a chemical paint remover saturates the wood making it impossible
for the paint to adhere…. this can not be reversed.
- If a sanding disc leaves deep gouges in the wood…. this can
not be reversed.
- If you contract unusual allergies from a citrus paint remover….
this can not be reversed.
- If chemical paint removers kill the landscaping around your
foundation…. this can not be reversed.
Basically it comes down to this. If you choose a method that will
not alter the integrity of the wood, you have chosen the correct
Conclusion: In the end, you must do your own research about
this very important issue. We strongly insist that chemicals and
sanders/grinders are extremely damaging to the wood surface and
the environment. Any fancy equipment is counterproductive if it
is trying to resolve one issue and at the same time creates an even
larger issue. When it comes to paint dust, the best method is to
generate as little dust a possible. The Silent Paint Remover is
most likely equivalent to one truck load of chemical strippers at
a cost of $50 a can. Remember that with infrared heat and a set
of high quality scrapers sanding is completely unnecessary. Heat-Guns
have very high risk of fire and create lead fumes.